Ending the Food Desert Gap
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Texas is home to more Black farmers than any state. In 2017, The USDA’s Census of Agriculture estimated that of the 3.4 million farmers in the United States, roughly 48,000 are Black, and nearly a quarter of them are located here in the Lone Star State.
In celebration of Juneteenth, TexasRealFood is highlighting African Americans who constitute the backbone of Texan agriculture.
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What do you do when there aren’t any grocery stores for miles, fresh food is almost unattainable, and a historic town is being swallowed up by a city - threatening its existence?
You start a farmers market. At least, that’s what Sade Perkins did.
Foundations of Emancipation
When she moved to Houston’s historic Freedmen’s Town area, the lack of grocery stores became painfully clear when Sade's car broke down one day. Unable to get groceries within walking distance, she resolved to tackle the issue herself, setting up a farmers market focused on BIPOC-owned/operated businesses. That was November 28, 2020, and today the Freedmen’s Town Farmers Market is ending the food desert gap in this historic part of Houston.
One of Freedmen's Town Farmers Market loyal customers
Freedmen’s Town was originally located on the outskirts of Houston - a town that was built by the emancipated slaves that migrated from areas like Galveston and Louisiana, to establish their own town of freed peoples. Freedmen’s Town saw folks laying what is now the iconic brick pavements, building much of their own infrastructure (including houses) as little support was given to these emancipated settlements. As Houston began to grow, so did its boundaries. Now, Freedmen’s Town is ostensibly part of Houston’s downtown, and very little remains in terms of its original size or buildings. What does is listed as of historical significance, and part of Sade’s mission is to preserve, highlight, and support what is left of this remarkable corner of Texas.
What used to be an autonomous town comprised solely of emancipated peoples and their descendants, is now well-and-truly part of Houston’s greater city limits. However, this was not always the case. According to BlackPast.org, a site that chronicles Black history in the US,
In 1929, the Houston City Planning Commission proposed a permanent geographical and racial segregation of Houston that limited black residence to the Second, Fourth, and Fifth Wards. While the Houston City Council refused to adopt such a plan (partly because it was illegal), blacks in Freedman’s Town and the Fourth Ward faced restrictive covenants and redlining practices that prevented African American mobility to most other parts of the city.
Despite this segregation, Freedmen’s Town, in its heyday, was a haven for African American-run businesses like restaurants and jazz bars that drew crowds from all over the city, including whites. Over time, and as Houston incorporated Freedmen’s Town, many of these businesses were shuttered, buildings destroyed, to make way for governmental buildings, new housing schemes, and further development.
Farm-Fresh Freedmen's Town
For Sade, this history is integral to Freedmen’s Town to this day, and it is still under threat from increasing development, and a lack of local businesses to bolster the community. In order to preserve what is left, the Freedmen’s Town Farmers Market is a key element in developing community, and respect and interest in the historical aspects of the place. Increasingly, the little original housing that remains in this corner of Houston is becoming unattainably expensive for many of the long-term residents. The lack of food amenities and sparse affordable housing has adversely impacted many of the multi-generational Freedmen’s Town natives. Despite this, the area is feeling the pressures of gentrification - though Sade also recognizes elements of this as a potential positive influence - as long as the history and core of Freedmen’s Town can be preserved through the education and support of these newcomers.
The weekly Saturday market serves to bring farm-fresh produce to the heart and people of Freedmen’s Town. Solely run and organized by Sade, she has developed long-standing relationships with the producers that sell at the market. Visiting the market is a joy - intensely family-friendly, with games and areas to hang out, chat, and get to know your neighbors. Beer is served, courtesy of St. Arnold’s Brewery (they are also launching a version of the market for Thursday nights at the brewery - keep an eye out for that!), so rolling on down on a Saturday morning, looking for a bit of hair-of-the-dog while collecting your groceries couldn’t be easier.
Sade describes the market: “It’s never the same market. Every day it’s different, with fresh-baked bread, bi-weekly CSA boxes, Fresh Life Organic chicken eggs, Pearl E. Graham Farms duck eggs, as well as artisan vendors that sell everything from bath and body art to jewelry.” She also describes the impact the market has had on the area, “It’s really given a sense of pride to the community. The market is open to everyone, and it’s been a great opportunity to really get to know a lot of my neighbors!”
When she speaks of the challenges of operating a market, the “rain or shine” policy has been one of the toughest elements. In fact, on the day the market was slated to launch, there was a veritable deluge. Sade considered canceling but was committed to the concept of providing farm-fresh food, no matter the weather. The universe rewarded her commitment, as Congressman Al Green stopped by to celebrate the initiative and meet the vendors - a proud moment for Sade, “Stay consistent, even in the rain, you gotta keep at it.”
This speaks to Sade’s undeniable work ethic and her commitment to Freedmen’s Town and its people. As a separate initiative, she coordinates the Freedmen’s Town Walking Tours, which take place each Saturday & Sunday morning from 11am-1pm, for those that want to get their groceries and history, too.
We can’t think of a better way to spend a Saturday than perusing farm-fresh foods in a historical part of Houston, all the while supporting the preservation of an important part of Texan history.
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Freedmen’s Town Farmers Market is hosting a Chili Cook-Off as part of their Juneteenth celebration - replete with free beer! Check it out here.
Freedmen’s Town Farmers Market takes place every Saturday, offering CSA pick-up and direct sale of a variety of food products, as well as artisanal makers. Click here for more info.
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